The Making of a Barrel

                             Barrel making is an arduous, tedious & expensive undertaking

Wine-Knows was in Burgundy a few days ago.  In addition to visiting some of the area's premier wine producers, we toured one of the most fascinating elements involved in  wine-making:  a barrel factory.  The process of making a barrel involves dozens of steps.  I’ve bucketed these many activities into these five major groups:

                          Proper aging of wood is critical to making a world-class barrel

1     1.  CURING

The process begins with choosing high quality oak.  The wood is then seasoned for months to several years to reduce its moisture content, and ultimately to create a tighter grain.

                        Computers are essential for precise cutting of each piece of wood

2      2. CUTTING & SHAPING

The seasoned wood is cut with precision into long thin pieces (staves).  As there are no adhesives used, it is critical that all parts of the barrel fit together perfectly to ensure a faultlessly tight seal.

 

                          Dried staves & a metal hoop begin the process of assembling

3      3. ASSEMBLING

The staves are assembled in a circle with metal hoops holding them in place. The staves are then soaked in water to make them more pliable, allowing them to be bent into the classical barrel shape.

                             The amount of fire dramatically influences a wine's flavor

4     4.  TOASTING

        The barrel is now placed over an open fire.  This step is crucial as it influences the             flavor of the wine.  The toaster follows the request of the winemaker:  “light,”                  “medium,” or “heavy toast.”

Appearance is vital to the top price barrels command.

       5.  FINISHING TOUCHES

The charred barrel is finished by placing additional hoops around the bottom, and both bottom & top receive a rounded precision-cut wood.  Finally, the barrel is sanded and inspected for quality.

Everything in the barrel’s process is expensive---from aging the wood to the skill required by numerous artisans involved in birthing a barrel.  It’s no wonder why today’s barrels sell for > $1,000 per masterpiece.

If you ever have the opportunity to visit a barrel maker, do not pass up the experience.

Germany’s Hidden Wine Gem: Mosel Valley

             The Mosel River in northwest Germany is home to fairy-tale villages & fabulous wines
 

Germany's Mosel Valley, near the Luxembourg & French borders, has been on my bucket list for decades.  Many years ago I was very fortunate to attend the German Wine Academy for a university-level summer course.   I still remember the day we studied the wines of the Mosel Valley.  In those days professors used slideshows to set the stage for the wines we were about to taste.  I have not forgotten the oohs-and-aahs when photos of the spectacular Mosel River Valley appeared on the classroom screen.   These gasps continued throughout the tasting of the Mosel's wines.

                                My visit was perfectly timed for the next village's annual wine festival.

I arrived some days ago in the Mosel Valley.   Both the scenery and the wines are even more stunning than I had imagined: dramatic almost ninety-degree vineyards plunging into the peaceful river, Hansel & Gretel villages filled with half-timbered houses & cobblestoned streets, and medieval castles dotting hilltops.   It’s all a Germanic wine Disneyland for even the most discerning of wine lovers.

                            These 2 couples were enjoying one of the first sunny days in September.

Riesling is the star attraction of Mosel wine.   If you’re scrunching your nose in disapproval it probably means you’ve never had a well-crafted Riesling.   Also, if you’re thinking sweet wine, stop!  Many Rieslings from the Mosel are dry.  Beloved by serious wine connoisseurs and sommeliers, a young Riesling offers lemon-lime (think a citrusy Sauvignon Blanc), along with interesting mineral and floral nuances.  Aged Riesling, on the other hand, becomes fuller and richer with traces of petrol. (Yes, petrol!  But, somehow this seemingly off-putting aroma works!)     

This extraordinary restaurant listed on their menu the actual name of the local man who shot this wild boar in a nearby forest.  It also featured 164 wines BY THE GLASS, along with hundreds by the bottle.

After several days of winery visits, dinners & a local wine festival here are my top two Mosel choices out of the delicious >30 wines I tried---both are available in the US market:

~ 2022 Selbach-Oster's Zeltinger Schlossberg "Bömer" Dry Riesling:   $45

~ 2018 Dr. Loosen's Erdener Treppchen Riesling Grand Cru Alta Reben:  $50

If you find either of these gems, grab them quickly!   BTW: Riseling’s high acidity makes for an especially food-friendly choice. 

Grenache—Sensational Summer Red

 

                        Grenache is one of the world's most versatile wine-making grapes 

Few red wines work during hot summers but Grenache is one of the exceptions.  After all, Grenache accounts for about 75% of the seductive wine blends of Chateauneuf du Pape in France's Rhone Valley.   While many mistakenly think the Rhone's popular Grenache is from France, in fact it is Spanish in origin.  Known as "Garnacha" in Spain, this late ripening red grape needs plenty of hot weather.  It's no wonder, therefore, that Grenache grows in Spain and the south of France where summers can be sizzling.

Grenache is one of the most versatile red grapes in the world.  It produces that can range from lighter to full-bodied; from simple and less costly ones that offer immediate gratification, to complex, multi-layered gems that are both cellar-worthy and pricey.  It's no wonder why Grenache is in the top ten of the planet's most planted grape varietal. 

While Grenache has moderate tannins to provide structure, this wine is all about fruit.  Think red fruit such as strawberries, raspberries, plums and cherries.  Depending upon the terroir, Grenache can also offer black fruit flavors such as blackberries.  Grenache, however, differentiates itself from other fruit forward wines because of the spices such as cinnamon or star anise, as well as subtle nuances of floral notes.  It's like a well-orchestrated symphony with the string, woodwind, brass and percussion sections all working together in perfect harmony.

The modest tannins and red fruit flavors means Grenache can work well with a variety of summer dishes, especially foods that have smoky or charred flavors.  Grilled poultry, meat and veggies all pair beautifully.  Grenache's spicy undertones also accentuate BBQ foods that have spices in the sauces.  Serving tapas?  Garnacha is a perfect choice as an aperitif.   Moreover, Grenache can work with desserts that reflect the red fruits of the wine.  Berry cobbler?  Perfect!   Strawberry shortcake?  Bravo!

One last tip for serving Grenache during hot weather:  make sure there's a slight chill on it.  Sixty degrees is perfect....but remember, room temperature is seventy and outside summer temps of eighty degrees can drastically dampen any wine's strengths.   

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Reimagining the Caprese Salad

          Try replacing the tomatoes with peaches, nectarines & cantaloupe, & the basil with thyme

I love insalata Caprese, but after a July filled with too-many-to-count salads named after my beloved island of Capri, I decided to switch it up a bit.   After tasting a luscious peach sample and inhaling the intoxicating scents of nearby melons at the Farmer’s market, I decided to try a riff on the Caprese.

Mozzarella di bufala is available at many Costcos & Whole Foods

To pay homage to Italy, however, I used fresh Mozzarella de Bufala.  Made on the mainland across from Capri, this classical cheese is made from the milk of a special breed of water buffalo.  Wine-Knows took a group about 10 years ago to an artisanal maker of Mozzarella de Bufala during our trip on the Amalfi Coast where we watched the entire process.  We learned that while it takes 18 pounds of cow’s milk to produce other cheeses, it only takes 11 pounds of buffalo milk.   Moreover, Bufala milk is higher in fat content than cos milk, thus the creamy texture and rich flavor of buffalo mozzarella.

Mozzarella de Bufalo DOP is protected from knockoffs by the government

I substituted the tomatoes with the Farmers Market peaches and melons, but then I made a bold move.  Why not substitute the basil for fresh thyme from my garden?  I tried a taste test and it worked.  Brava!   I was so happy with the results that I decided to make another one next week and substitute goat cheese for the mozzarella, and make a fresh mint pesto.

 

Spain’s Most Popular Liqueur

                                                       43 adds a complex vanilla flavor
 

Little known in the US, “Licor 43” (simply Cuarenta y Tres to Spanish speakers) is the most sought after liqueur in its native Spain.  Named after the forty-three ingredients from which it's made, 43 Licor is a well-kept secret recipe of the family who has been making it for nearly eighty years.

I first encountered 43 on the island of Mallorca when I was served a decadent glass of white sangria at an upscale restaurant/hotel.  There was a definite something different, something quite wonderful that I couldn’t put my finger on…and it wasn’t the sparkling white wine from which it was made.   Fortunately, I was able to learn the recipe from the bartender:  Cava, sparkling lemonade and 43!   The Bartender couldn't believe I had never heard 43 and showed me the bottle.

                                       Summer is the perfect time for serving white 43 sangria

When exiting Spain I made sure to stop at the Duty Free to purchase a bottle to take home.  The display of 43 was gigantic, by far the largest in the entire store overflowing with every name-brand liquor.   I was dumbfounded that I had never heard of it in spite of  more than thirty trips to Spain.  

Upon returning back to the US my first sip of the liqueur I discovered what makes 43 so compelling.  In its virginal state, it was a vanilla bomb laced with many complexities.  It reminded me of a relative of Italian Tuaca & Galliano, both vanilla laden liqueurs.  But, 43 had so many layers:  cinnamon, orange peel & savory.  Now, I could understand why that first white Sangria had me at “Hola!”

                            White 43 Sangria is also a hit at Christmas with oranges & pomegranates

I  have made lots of this white Sangria after that trip to Mallorca. When I had almost finished the bottle of 43 I began to panic and wondered if I could get it shipped from Spain.  I Googled it and happily found that all the big liquor stores in the US carry it (e.g. Total Wine & BevMo).   Perfecto!

 

White Sangria recipe:

 Wine-Knows: Fine Wine & Gourmet Food Journeys for the Discerning Traveler: White, Red & Blue Sangria (wineknowstravel.blogspot.com)

Orange Liqueurs: What’s the Difference?

                                            All of these orange liqueurs are Triple Sec!

I don’t know about you, but we use a lot of orange liqueurs in this household.  At the moment, our lime trees are laden with a bumper crop so we’re making mucho margaritas that use orange liqueur.  Moreover, summer is here and one of my favorite desserts is anything topped with fresh berries and a splash of an orange liqueur.  Our bar is stocked with Cointreau, Grand Marnier, a dark & light Curacao, two different Combiers, and a few other orange liqueurs we've picked up.   But which is the best?  That depends.

                  I prefer Cointreau in margaritas for its bright orange flavors & clear color

There is a significant difference in these orange liqueurs and which one is used is dependent upon what flavors you want.  I'm going to take the two most popular in alpha order.  Cointreau is really a type of Triple Sec (Triple Sec is simply any orange liqueur).   In 1885 Cointreau was registered as a brand name in France.   Cointreau was originally marked as Cointreau Triple Sec, however, the name was changed after World War I to differentiate it from other orange liqueurs of lesser quality that were entering the marketplace.

           Note the somewhat darker color of the Grand Marnier Margarita on the left  vs the lighter Cointreau Margarita on the right

                           

Distilled in copper stills, Cointreau in an unaged clear-colored liqueur.   It offers complex orange flavors due to its mélange of oranges from Spain and the Caribbean, both bringing different citrus flavors to the blend.   Cointreau also has little sugar, therefore, has a drier finish (actually “sec” in French means dry or little sugar).  As it has no color, Cointreau could be considered in a cocktail for its neutrality in color.  Its complex orange flavors is another reason for choosing it.

Next in the Triple Sec popularity lineup is Grand Marnier.  Simply put, Grand Marnier is Triple Sec mixed with Cognac in nearly equal amounts.  This liqueur was developed about the same time as Cointreau in 1880 by a Frenchman by the name of Marnier.  Using Triple Sec made of fruit from the bitter Caribbean orange, he mixed it with and Cognac and called it “Curacao Marnier.”  His friend, hotelier Caesar Ritz, suggested renaming it Grand Marnier and the rest is history.

             Grand Manier's Cognac backbone pairs beautifully with berries & a touch of mint

Grand Marnier’s addition of Cognac alters its flavor and color.  As Cognac is aged in an oak barrel, nuances from the barrel impart flavors to Grand Marnier such as vanilla, nuttiness, and caramelized orange.   Oak influence also changes the color of Cognac as it ages to a dark amber.  Since Grand Marnier is 51% Cognac, its color is also amber.  This may be a consideration in which orange liqueur one chooses.

Grand Marnier should be used when a richer, fuller bodied flavor of burnt orange laced with nuttiness complement a drink.  Its dark color should also be considered.  While many up-market margaritas are made with Grand Marnier, I prefer the more gentle, lighter and brighter orange flavors found in Cointreau, and I like that Cointreau does not affect the visual of the cocktail.

By now you should know that Triple Sec is not a specific brand but a category of orange liqueurs which includes Cointreau and Grand Marnier, along with a host of other brands.  So which orange liqueur should you utilize?  That depends!

The New Darling of Wine: Pet-nat

                          Joseph Jewell's pet-nat Vermentino is perfect for a summer aperitif

There’s a new kid on the wine block called “pet-nat.”  Making its mark on wine lists everywhere, this effervescent kid isn’t actually new, but has deep historical roots in European wine-making.   Pre-dating even Champagne, pet-nat is thought to be the oldest method of making a sparkling wine.

Pet-nat is an abbreviated form for “petillant naturel,” a French style of sparkling wine.   Unlike Champagne which has undergone a second fermentation in the bottle to create its bubbles, pet-nat is bottled just before the first fermentation is complete.  This first fermentation actually continues in the pet-nat bottle, capturing the resulting bubbles of carbon dioxide and, therefore, making a sparkling wine.  Pet-nat’s fizz is more gentle than traditional Champagne, and its alcohol levels are more modest than other sparkling wines made via a second fermentation in the bottle which makes it perfect for warm weather.

 

Most Pet-nats are capped with a simple metal topper

                                  

Pet-nat can be made from any grape variety.  Aromatic varieties such as Riesling and Muscat do well, as do varieties that have good acidity.  Pet-nat, however, is not relegated only to white grapes.  Juicy Gamay also works well as fruitiness, freshness and early drinkability of Gamay translates well into pet-nat which is made to be enjoyed young when fruitiness and freshness are at their height.

Currently, there is no official definition or any wine laws about how to make pet-nat, with the exception of a few appellations in France.   Pet-nat is becoming increasing available and its growth seems to parallel the resurgence of the natural wine movement.  Both platforms share a similar philosophy of organic /biodynamic farming, avoiding Sulphur, using natural yeast, and little fining or filtration.

Why not host a pet-nat tasting?

One of my favorite pet-nats is made by Joseph Jewell Winery in Sonoma  (www.josephjewell.com).  Made from the Italian Vermentino grape (popular on Italy’s Tuscan & Ligurian Coast), this one, like its name, is a jewel.  You can order cases from the winery direct ($44 per bottle).   Another winner is Birichino’s Malvasia Bianca ($28) from Monterey county (www.birichino.com).   Malvasia’s stone fruit profile of peach & apricot is laced with pineapple and mandarins.  Yum.   But, no need to limit yourself to the US as pet-nats are made in Australia, Austria, France, South Africa and Spain!