The New Darling of Wine: Pet-nat

                          Joseph Jewell's pet-nat Vermentino is perfect for a summer aperitif

There’s a new kid on the wine block called “pet-nat.”  Making its mark on wine lists everywhere, this effervescent kid isn’t actually new, but has deep historical roots in European wine-making.   Pre-dating even Champagne, pet-nat is thought to be the oldest method of making a sparkling wine.

Pet-nat is an abbreviated form for “petillant naturel,” a French style of sparkling wine.   Unlike Champagne which has undergone a second fermentation in the bottle to create its bubbles, pet-nat is bottled just before the first fermentation is complete.  This first fermentation actually continues in the pet-nat bottle, capturing the resulting bubbles of carbon dioxide and, therefore, making a sparkling wine.  Pet-nat’s fizz is more gentle than traditional Champagne, and its alcohol levels are more modest than other sparkling wines made via a second fermentation in the bottle which makes it perfect for warm weather.

 

Most Pet-nats are capped with a simple metal topper

                                  

Pet-nat can be made from any grape variety.  Aromatic varieties such as Riesling and Muscat do well, as do varieties that have good acidity.  Pet-nat, however, is not relegated only to white grapes.  Juicy Gamay also works well as fruitiness, freshness and early drinkability of Gamay translates well into pet-nat which is made to be enjoyed young when fruitiness and freshness are at their height.

Currently, there is no official definition or any wine laws about how to make pet-nat, with the exception of a few appellations in France.   Pet-nat is becoming increasing available and its growth seems to parallel the resurgence of the natural wine movement.  Both platforms share a similar philosophy of organic /biodynamic farming, avoiding Sulphur, using natural yeast, and little fining or filtration.

Why not host a pet-nat tasting?

One of my favorite pet-nats is made by Joseph Jewell Winery in Sonoma  (www.josephjewell.com).  Made from the Italian Vermentino grape (popular on Italy’s Tuscan & Ligurian Coast), this one, like its name, is a jewel.  You can order cases from the winery direct ($44 per bottle).   Another winner is Birichino’s Malvasia Bianca ($28) from Monterey county (www.birichino.com).   Malvasia’s stone fruit profile of peach & apricot is laced with pineapple and mandarins.  Yum.   But, no need to limit yourself to the US as pet-nats are made in Australia, Austria, France, South Africa and Spain!

Summer Reds

                           Pinots, Grenache and Frappoto make for great summer drinking

A light bodied red wine can be the spot-on choice for a hot summer’s day.  Perfect summertime grapes include Pinot Noir, Grenache, and Frappoto.  All of these grape varietals are thin-skinned, therefore, don’t offer a lot of tannin (not the best ingredient during the heat of the summer).

Pinot Noir, grown in cool climate areas (think Sonoma vs. Napa), is a terrific summer wine that can pair both with meats and fish.  Pinot flavor profile includes cherries and strawberries, but interesting spice or floral notes can make this varietal a compelling wine.   Pinot Noir is the hallmark grape of Burgundy, but red Burgundies are usually expensive.  For something more affordable look for great Pinots that are made in the Russian River of California… not far from the cooler Pacific Coast.  Oregon’s Willamette Valley also produces some stunners.  All Pinot Noirs below are highly recommended.

·        Russian River:  I particularly like Dehlinger.

·        Oregon:  Ponzi, Adelsheim, Domaine Droughin or Soter all produce excellent wines.

·        Burgundy:  Jadot produces both high-end, as well as some less costly wines.

Grenache is the world’s most planted red grape.  It is becoming more popular, especially among California vintners.  A Rhone varietal (one of the grapes used in Chateauneuf du Pape), it is also grown in Spain where it is known as Garnacha.  California’s Central Coast is also having very good success with this varietal, but they are using it primarily in blends.  The Grenache grape is full of red fruit flavors (strawberries and raspberries).  While it has good structure, Grenache’s tannins are background notes.  The wine works especially well with grilled chicken, but also can swing to lamb or beef.   My faves include....

• Spain:  look no further than Arryan’s La Suerte Mentrida. 
• Central Coast:  Best includes Tablas Creek, Zaca Mesa and Justin.
• Chateauneuf du Pape:  Beaucastel is the bomb. 

·      Frapatto is one of my favorites for summer time.  Hailing from Sicily, Frapotto is a fun summer wine that usually everyone likes.  Relatively unknown in the US until recently, Frapotto is starting to appear on our wine lists.  Often blended with Sicily’s famous Nero d’Avola grape, Frapotto is more and more being vinified as its own varietal.  Think strawberries.   It’s a real hero with fish.  Best producers are Planeta and Orcchipenti.

     Paint the remainder of the summer Red!