Life is a Cabernet----Franc!

 

  Wine-Knows at Chateau Latour surrounded by Cab Franc

 

I’m Francophile…in this case, I’m referring to my love of Cabernet Franc, not my love of France.  One of the five grapes allowed in Bordeaux’s world-class reds, this close relative of Cabernet Sauvignon adds rich notes of raspberries, black currants and violets to this benchmark area’s blended wines.  Cabernet Franc is also less tannic and produces a smoother mouth-feel than Sauvignon---both of these essential to the complex red wines of Bordeaux.  Cabernet Franc, on the other hand, is not just a Bordeaux grape.  The varietal truly takes on rock-star status in another area of France, the Loire Valley.  Here it is vinified as a 100% varietal wine and is known as Chinon, Saumur or Bourgueil.

Cabernet Franc, however, is not just the step-sister of Cabernet Sauvignon.  It may surprise many of you to learn that Cabernet Franc is actually one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon.  DNA analysis shows that Cabernet Franc crossed in the vineyard with a neighboring Sauvignon Blanc plant and produced the off-spring we now call Cabernet Sauvignon.  This cross is thought to have taken place in France.

Now one of the world’s 20 most planted grapes, Cabernet Franc is grown outside of France in many wine districts around the globe.  In addition to Europe, Cabernet Franc is grown in the USA, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia.  When I was last in South America, both Chile and Argentina were growing the grape.  A young, cutting-edge Chilean producer (Maquis) was working closely with one of Bordeaux’s premier wine consultants and producing a killer 100% Cabernet Franc he aptly named “Franco.”  Argentine winemakers are also working with the grape but mainly as a blending variety.

 

What I love most about Cabernet Franc is its approachability at a young age.  Because of its lower tannin structure, it can be drunk much earlier than a Cabernet Sauvignon.  Moreover, I love its structure---especially this time of year when a lighter-weight (but equally compelling) red works better with the summer heat.  Last but not least, I’m a fan both of the grape’s flavor profile and texture.

Cheval Blanc, one of Bordeaux’s most highly esteemed estates, produces one of the world’s most expensive wines----it is 100% Cabernet Franc.  Need I say more? If you don’t know Cabernet Franc you should make it a point to exercise this  muscle.  Recommended producers, listed in order of price, include:

 

• Bernard Baudry La Croix Bausee Chinon (Loire)  $35
• Spring Valley Winery (Washington) “Katherine”  $50
• Pride Mountain (California)  $50
• Los Maquis’ Franco (Chile)  $60

Coming to Bordeaux with us for the 2016 Harvest tour?  You will learn a lot about what Cabernet Franc adds to the area's hallmark wines.   There is only one spot remaining for some lucky oenophile.  For more about this trip, check out
www.WineKnowsTravel.com.
 

Flavor Ripe vs. Sugar Ripe ?

                                                      

The grape harvest in California is just around the corner.  With the huge amount of sunshine we’ve received this summer, there should be no problem in ripening the fruit.  Most of us would think ripe means sweet….after all, how many times have we heard a winemaker discuss picking grapes at a certain level of “Brix?”  (Brix is a test that measures sugar content.)  This indicator, however, is not the only indicator of what makes a great wine.   As scientists have refined their understanding of the ripening process, winemakers are now steering away from using a single index of grape maturity.

Without going too science-nerd on you, let’s review what happens to grapes during their final stages of ripening. The most noticeable changes occur in their exterior skin colors.  Called “verasion” (when a red wine grape, such as Cabernet, changes from green to red and then to black) color pigments are deposited in the grape’s skin.  Verasion also occurs in white wine grapes when colors change from green to yellow and then to deep golden.  These are just the tip of the iceberg to the unseen chemical transformations occurring inside the grapes.

The interior of the fruit is busy accumulating sugar.  At the same time of increasing sweetness, another important process is occurring:  acid levels are dropping.  But, these are just two of the many complex physiological alterations inside the grape. Tannins also are changing, becoming less aggressive and bitter-tasting.   Other biological are underway making the grape taste less herbaceous.  All of these changes are highly significant to the winemaker.

Today’s winemakers view ripening as two completely different processes.  Sugar ripeness refers to the breakdown of acids and simultaneous accumulation of sugar.  Flavor ripeness (physiological ripeness) encompasses all the other complex chemical changes, such as tannins softening, skin pigments darkening.  In a perfect winemaking world, both of these processes would occur simultaneously.  They do not. 

Sugar and acid balance are instrumental in making wine, but they are not the perfect indicator of a great wine.  Sugar and acid balance cannot predict the ripeness of flavors or aromas.  In spite of a plethora of modern technology, there is no single index for determining flavor ripeness.  In fact, the best determinant for verifying physiological ripeness is very low tech---taste.  In concert, the winemaker must rely on experience and instinct as most of the fruit flavors aren’t released until fermentation.

Next time you’re having a glass of vino, focus on the aromas, flavors and mouth-feel.  These come from flavor ripeness.

Foodie Gifts to Bring Home from Vietnam

Wine-Knows is going to Vietnam for the second time in February 2016.  Several clients have inquired about what kinds of gifts are best to bring back for foodie friends at home.  All require little space and have relatively small weight when compared to other gift items that may tempt you.

Coffee:

                 Coffee is an art-form in Vietnam...they even have their own drip maker.

Some of you may be scratching your head on this one----coffee from Vietnam?   Trust me when I say, "trust me" on this one. Vietnam is one of the world's largest coffee producers (second only to Brazil).   Like French Roast?  You'll enjoy the Vietnamese version...no doubt strongly influenced by the French occupation of the country for nearly 100 years.  And, I know just the place to buy it.

Lotus tea:

                                                         One sip and you'll be hooked!                                               

A dear Vietnamese friend from California  (born in Saigon) came on my last trip to Vietnam.  One of her favorite things as a child was lotus tea.  It was love at first sip for me.  Actually, it was love at first smell.  This tea has an intense but delicate floral aroma and taste.  The petals of the lotus plant are picked in the early morning and dried for this tea.  It's a culinary masterpiece.

5 spice powder:

                      With just a tablespoon or so, these packets are easy for packing.

Some of the dishes prepared in cooking classes on our first trip were made with this intoxicating mixture.  Yes, one can buy 5 spice in the USA, but the Vietnamese version is more aromatic and complex in flavor.  I plan to bring home double the amount I did on the last trip.

Dried strawberries:

                  While there are many dried fruits in Vietnam, the strawberries were special.

Yes, you can occasionally find these in the USA, but they are not as intense as those in Vietnam.  These are a scrumptious delicacy that are sure to please even the most discerning gourmet.

Dried snow mushrooms:

              I rushed to the market to buy these immediately following our cooking class.

I fell in love with these in northern Vietnam's mountains where tea is grown on hillside terraces against a breathtaking backdrop of rural villages and lush landscapes.  These delectable edibles grow on trunks of trees and are used in a variety of salads and main dishes.   I intend to fill my suitcase with bags of them as they are nearly weightless.

We have two spots left in the upcoming trip to Vietnam in February 2016.    The trip is showcased at www.WineKnowsTravel.com.

Refreshing Summer Libations

Living in San Diego is almost like living in a constant state of summertime.  That means that my house is always stocked to the brim with the makings for a cadre of light aperitifs.  In July and August, low alcohol pre-dinner cocktails are even more mandatory.  Here are my faves---all liked by even the most discriminating visitor.

WHITE PORT and Tonic:

                                   Served to the Wine-Knows group on the 2011 tour.

One of the most surprising is a drink made from white Port.  White Port is dry, not sweet.  I first was served this by a well-known chef in Porto, Portugal, the epicenter of Port production.  It was 100 degrees and the aperitif was mixed with tonic water and a slice of lemon (equal parts).  I’ve been a raving fan since.   While white Port is difficult to find in the states, it’s growing popularity has made it has more available.  If kept in a frig, it will last at least a month…at our house, it wouldn’t last the week.  If you’re fortunate enough to have snagged one of the sold-out 2016 Portugal seats, you’ll have several!

LILLET and Tonic:

                                           Lillet Blonde, Lillet Rouge & Tonic.

Lillet is an aperitif made from Bordeaux grapes.  It comes in a white version (distilled from Bordeaux’s Sauv Blanc and Semillon), or a red version (distilled from the area’s Cabs and Merlot.)  On Wine-Knows' tours to Bordeaux we always take the group to the Lillet factory where one can mix a plethora of drinks.  The hands-down winner is always the following recipe:  1/3 white, 1/3 red, 1/3 tonic…with a slice or orange and/or fresh fruit in season.

APEROL SPRITZ

                                             My very first Aperol Spritz in Venice.

This is almost like having to choose your favorite child, but currently this one floats to the top of my list.  I discovered the drink in Venice about 5 years ago…every table of Italians was filled with neon orange drinks.  I ordered one and the rest is history.  They are the bomb!  Keep in mind I hate Campari (way too bitter for me), but I love its distant cousin, Aperol, an intensely orange-flavored aperitivo with just the right whisper of bitter.  The spritz is half Aperol and half Prosecco, served with a slice of orange.   Viva Italia!

Awesome Albariño

                                        Galicia's spectacular coastline, ground zero for Albariño

If you don’t know Albariño, put it at the top of your summer’s list of white wines to try.  Everyone we serve it to always inquires about the wine and asks where it can be purchased.  It’s different.  It’s interesting.  It’s subtle.  It’s masculine.  It’s feminine. 

Albariño is the name of the wine and the grape.  Although this grape originated in France, it is now rarely grown there----Spain is the country that produces quintessential Albariño. The Galicia province, Spain’s most western area just above Portugal, is the epicenter for Albariño production.

If you’re a lover of aromatic Viognier, dry Gewurztraminer or Argentina’s Torrontes, you’ll no doubt be equally attracted to Albariño.  All of these wines offer enticing aromas of peaches and apricots.  Another compelling feature is Albariño’s high acidity which allows it to be a food-friendly choice.  Last, but  no means least especially during the heat of summer, Albariño is low in alcohol, typically only 11.5 – 12%.

Rias Baixas (ree us buy shussz) is Galicia’s premium wine district for Albariño.  Look for the Rias Biaxas D.O. label on the bottle which proves the origin of grapes from this important district.  Recommended producers worth searching out (including on the Internet) are:

• Forjas del Salnas:  boutique winery pushing the quality envelope
• Pazo de Senorans:  killer wines from this benchmark producer
• Palacio de Fefiñanes:  the oldest producer of Albariño…and one of assuredly the best

If you are coming on next year’s harvest tour to Spain and Portugal, we will be visiting all of these rock-star wineries.   If not, order a bottle and discover and enjoy this varietal.

Best of Greece, Umbria, & Tuscany

I’ve just returned home from nearly two months in Europe.  I had three different groups of Wine-Knows in three different venues (Greece, Umbria and Tuscany).  All locations were equally compelling from a wine point of view.  Here’s what floated to the “best of the best” list.   (Please note that one of my criteria for listing in this Blog was that the wines were available in the U.S.)

GREECE: 

                   (Togas on the yacht were mandatory on our last night for women...and men!)

We had some fabulous wines on the 12 person private yacht that Wine-Knows chartered, all carefully chosen from this country’s top producers.  The white that really stood out was Gerivassillou’s Viognier, 2013.  Viognier in Greece?  That’s what I thought but Decanter Magazine (kind of the UK’s version of the Wine Spectator) had given it a coveted Gold Medal, and the Viognier had scored well in numerous blind tastings.  Indeed, this wine was killer.  If you want to help out Greece’s economy, this $40-45 wine is a solid bet sure to please even the most discerning oenophile.

UMBRIA:

(Last night festivities at our Umbrian villa included a glorious outdoor dinner)

One of my favorite white wines in all of Italy is a chardonnay blend made by Antinori’s Castello della Salla.   I have had numerous vintages over the years and scheduled an appointment at the Castle (castello) with the Wine Knows group that had rented a 10,000 square foot Umbrian villa.  While I loved the chardonnay wine (called “Cervaro”), the other wine they served really pulled at the strings of my heart for the quality price ratio.  This white Bordeaux blend (Sauv Blanc and Semillon) was luscious and had great complexity for the price.  Named Conte della Vipera, this one is a steal at $30.

TUSCANY:

      (A casual last night's dinner at our swanky seaside villa to toast our week of wining & dining)

Wine Knows concentrated on the area of the Super-Tuscans, the Maremma district.  Located on Tuscany’s relatively unexplored western coastline, this is an area of renegade winemakers who are breaking all the Italian rules for winemaking and pushing the viticultural envelope by introducing international varieties to a formerly only-Sangiovese area.   Three producers wowed me in the Maremma.  Poggio Tesoro had me at hello when they served their 2012 Mediterra.  A Cab Sauv, Syrah and Merlot blend this one represents an outstanding value at $25.  Podere Sapaio also produced a best in class red called Volpolo.  Their 2012 Volpolo (Cab Sauv, Petite Verdot and Merlot) was chocked full of complexity for an unbelievable price of 25 bucks.   Upping the price point ante, Castello Bolgheri 2011 vintage was a beautifully crafted wine.  At $50-60 per bottle, this Cab Sauv & Franc plus Merlot blend was lovely.

The Wine Knows groups in Greece, Umbria and Tuscany had many gems in our glasses.  For those of you who could not make it, you should consider purchasing these wines...all of which were crowd-pleasers on the tour.  If you were on the trip, open a bottle and reminisce.

Groovy Grüner

                                           >30% of Austria's grapes are Grüner Veltliner

Don’t worry about how to pronounce Grüner Veltliner.  It’s easier than it looks.  (grewner vilt leener). Don’t worry that you have never heard of this dry white wine ---it’s Austria’s signature wine grape and rarely grown in the U.S.  Do worry, however, if you’ve not tried this wine as it’s the perfect wine for a summer’s evening.

Until the 1990’s very few wine lovers had heard of Grüner but things have changed.  Today, any serious restaurant (whether it be in San Francisco, New York or Tokyo) is not without a Grüner Veltliner on its wine list.  In blind tasting after blind tasting among oenophiles in-the-know, Grüner continues to surprise many by floating to the top of the best whites…surpassing premier white Burgundies such as Corton Charlemagne and Montrachet.  Grüner is capable of producing very fine, full bodied wines.  Moreover, some of them are quite capable of aging.

Flavors?  Think lime, lemon and grapefruit mixed with peach or nectarine.  A note of herbs can be present that is often described as white pepper.  All of this is hanging cohesively on a well-structured backbone of acidity.

One of the most important qualities for me about a wine is how it pairs with food.  Grüner Veltliner is an especially food-friendly wine---it works well with the traditional pairings for high-acid whites such as chicken and fish, but it also works beautifully with spicy cuisines such as Asian.  Some even say that it passes the litmus test to pair with artichokes and artichokes, both of which have been next to impossible in our home to work with any wine.

The best Grüners can be expensive but they have enormous aging potential.  If you want to try a good one for $30 look for Niolai Hof’s Hefeabzug 2012.  The Wine Spectator listed it in its top 100 wines of the world, and Parker scored it a 91.

Get in the Groove!