Frappato---the Perfect Summer Red

Looking for a light-bodied red to sip by the pool, or to have with an antipasto on a hot summer’s eve?  How about a red that works with fish?  I have just the wine.  Frappato is an Italian varietal (both the name of the grape, as well as the name of the wine), grown primarily in Sicily.  It produces a dry light-bodied wine, a lovely choice for summer imbibing.   Never heard of it.  That's not unusual, as until recently Frappato was not seen much outside of Italy.

Frappato is now becoming more popular in the U.S.  As sommeliers seek out new varietals for sophisticated consumers who are tiring of the “same old thing,” this one ticks all the boxes for an interesting summer red.  I was recently surprised to see it on the well-chosen wine list of one of my favorite Italian restaurants in San Francisco, Sociale.  My well-traveled dining companion had never heard of the varietal, so it was a must choose…and it didn’t disappoint.  The Frappato paired beautifully with our fish as well as a wild mushroom pasta.

The Frappato grape, indigenous to Sicily, can be vinified soley.  The best zone for the single varietal Frappato  is southeastern Sicily.  In this zone Frapatto  is given a DOC status denoting a special geographical area.  Frapatto is also part of the island’s famous blended wine Cerasuolo di Vittoria.  This wine is the only one in Sicily that has been awarded the coveted DOCG, Italy’s top wine pedigree.  Cerasulo’s blend is typically 40% Frappato and 60% of Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s hallmark red grape. 

DNA studies show that Frappato has a close genetic relationship with Sangiovese.  Somewhere in the past, Sangiovese crossed with some other grape and created what we now know as Frappato.   Its Sangiovese heritage contributes profiles of red cherries and plenty of acidity to pair with food, however, there are other elements that cannot be linked to Sangiovese.  For example, Sangiovese typically has few aromatics, but Frappato offers a great nose of cherries and raspberries, often along with elements of red licorice and herbs.   Moreover, while Sangiovese is tannic, Frappato’s tannins are much more moderate and approachable. 

Valle dell’Acate is a great producer of Frappato.   Gulfi makes a wonderful rendition of the blended version, Cerasuolo di Vitteria.  If you’re coming to Sicily this fall with Wine-Knows you’ll not only be staying on the Gulfi wine estate for three days, but you will also be trying a variety of Frappatos including Valle dell’Acate.

FANTASY ISLAND---Sicilian Cuisine

Goethe got it right in many ways: “To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily, is not to have seen Italy at all.”  This is certainly true of Sicily’s food scene which is an exotic mélange reflecting its varied group of conquerors, its abundant produce from volcanic soil, unprecedented hours of sunshine, and bountiful seas.

The Greeks founded colonies in Sicily’s far eastern shore in the 8^th century B.C.  With them they brought wine grapes and olives, two of the hallmarks of the island’s current cuisine.   Roman invaders arrived during the 2^nd century BC.  Their armies brought pasta, another modern staple.  But, it was the Arabs who the greatest influence on Sicily foods---more than the Greeks and the Romans combined.

Arabs sailed to Sicilian shores in the 8^th century AD.  With them they transported their almonds, citrus, pine nuts, eggplant, saffron and sugar (it was Sicily that introduced the remainder of Europe to sugar in the 9^th century).  But, this wasn’t all the Arabs brought.  They also introduced melons, rice, raisins, nutmeg, cloves, pepper and cinnamon, along with gelato (the Arabs, who had never seen snow, made sorbet from the snow of Mt. Etna mixing it with their rosewater).  All of these ingredients (and gelato) have a profound influence in Sicily’s contemporary food scene.

The Arabs remained until the 12^th century when Sicily was invaded by the Normans, descendants of the Vikings.  These sea-faring folks taught the Sicilians the skill of fish-curing.  To this day, Sicily remains one of the world’s largest producers of sardines and anchovies.

Next came the Spaniards in the late 1400’s.  With them they carried the tomatoes, peppers, chocolate and prickly pears that Spanish explorers had brought back from the Southern American continent.   All of these items remain an important part in Sicilian diet in the 21^st century.

Another influence on Sicily’s foodways occurred when the French arrived in the 1800’s.  French-trained chefs became a status symbol with Sicilian aristocrats.  Monzu (Sicilian dialect for chef) is derived from the French word monsieur.  Chefs from France added vast amounts of butter and cream to local recipes and even introduced foie gras.   In addition to the island’s glorious sunshine and warm seas, this may have been another reason in the last part of the 20^th century that Sicily became a favorite winter resort for European royalty.   While some butter and cream is used today, olive oil is the island's main fat.

New Laws for French Restaurants

The French have laws to protect the origin of wine grapes (e.g. only those grown in Bordeaux can be used in Bordeaux wine), cheeses (e.g. only cows from the town of Roquefort can be used in this coveted cheese), along with a host of other food products including olives, honey, and even chickens. The French senate has now voted in another law having to do with origin, however, this one will force restaurants to distinguish between food cooked on the premises versus made elsewhere.

The impetus for this legislation is to preserve France’s gastronomic heritage and reverse an alarming trend for chefs to take short cuts in the name of Euro’s.   Data suggests that >30% of France’s 100,000 restaurants use industrially prepared food for some of the dishes on their menus.  The legislation is also a wake-up call to diners that all is not what it appears. 

The French have a marche (market) mentality…the blue plate special (menu du jour), available in most every restaurant, represents what is fresh in the market that day.  Expectations are that the menu is in tune with the season or that of the “day’s catch.”  Diners would be horrified to know that there’s a good possibility that one of their dishes was possibly frozen and purchased several days (or weeks) before from an industrial supplier hundreds of kilometers away.  One such “ready-made” company, for example, offers more than 3,400 dishes.

The new law will force French restaurants to identify on their menu which dishes are made on premises.  Fait maison (made in house) will identify what is made at the restaurant.  Without this designation, diners will know it was brought in from elsewhere.

The new legislation passed with a close vote.   Economics were the biggest culprit.  Restaurant owners vow that dining prices will escalate due to their increasing labor costs of making dishes fait maison.  But, others maintain that the new law will save the bistro and encourage demand for freshly prepared food.  All of this is occurring, however, while fast food consumption is growing and the cost of living in Frances continues to increase.

Viva la France!

Michelin Star Dining

On every Wine-Knows trip we try to include at least one visit to a Michelin star restaurant.  Until recently, gourmet diners had to travel abroad to dine in a Michelin star restaurant, however, the much revered Michelin rating system for restaurants is now in the US and has become popular among serious foodies.  The system began in France (where else?) and the story goes something like this…

The Michelin guide began in 1900 when the Michelin tire company offered a freebie brochure for its customers who were embarking on a trip.  It offered maps and tips on how to fix a tire and where to stop for car problems.  As an aside, it also offered information on lodging and restaurants. By the mid-1920’s, the brochure had morphed into a guide that now cost drivers, and included a special designation for restaurants that were exemplary. 

By the 1930’s, the guide was a bright red color and it had fine-tuned its restaurant rating system into almost the same system used today: good restaurants were simply listed (it was an honor to be even listed in the guide).  Particularly noteworthy restaurants, however, were listed in a hierarchy:  one star restaurants were special gourmet stops;  two star establishments were even more oou-la-la  for foodies; three star restaurants offered la crème de la crème of France’s finest dining.

So what criteria is used by Michelin?  No one knows for sure as its rating system and inspectors’ identities are as carefully guarded as the keys to the wine cellar of the Elysee Palace (the home of France’s Presidents).  That being said, the following figure somewhere into the equation: 

• Service
• Quality of tableware (e.g. china, stemware, linens)
• Appointments of dining room (e.g. floral arrangements, draperies, chairs, lighting)
• Quality of food
• Quality of wine list

Michelin guides are now in 20-something countries and often have a “make or break” influence on chefs/restaurants.  At least one chef has committed suicide over losing a star…numerous bankruptcies, restaurant closures, and divorces have occurred because of demotions of a star.

Coming to Sicily on the Fall tour?  We’ll be dining at La Madia in Licata, a two star Michelin restaurant.  The guide (published every year and available in most bookstores for about $35), is also available online at http://www.viamichelin.com/web/Restaurants.

An Updated (and Better) Caprese Salad

There are those who will say one can’t improve on the Italian classic named after the island of Capri on which it originated.  I was one of them… until recently. It’s one of those “I wouldn’t have believed it until I tasted it” phenomena.  Tasting is believing!  And, now is the time to try this gem as nectarines are in their prime.

Like the original Caprese salad, the new version is easy and fast (less than 30 minutes to assemble---no cooking is required).  The new rendition actually uses both nectarines and tomatoes (also coming in to their perfect season).  And, both mint, as well as basil, are used.  Important tip:  do NOT skip the mint as it’s one of the recipe’s secrets.  Also, do not tear or cut either of these herbs until right before serving (to preserve their best aromas).

Ingredients (6 salads served as a first course):

~ 2 lbs of assorted heirloom tomatoes (the smaller are often more flavorful)

~ 1.5 lbs of perfectly ripe white nectarines (yellow can also be substituted)

~ 8 oz of mozzarella or burrata

~ ¼ cup of basil (either the green or purple varietal)

~ ¼ cup of mint

~ 1 Tablespoon peach vinegar (can substitute another fruit vinegar, or Champagne vinegar)

~ ½ Tablespoon of Balsamic vinegar (light or dark)

~ 3 Tablespoons of good quality EVOO (I used ½ regular EVOO, and ½ Basil    flavored EVOO)

~ Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt

Directions:

Cut tomatoes and nectarines into wedges.  Slice cheese.  Place on platter (or individual serving dishes).  Scatter freshly chopped basil and mint over salad.  Wisk together the vinegars and oil in a small bowl, then drizzle over salad.  Sprinkle with salt & pepper.

Buon appetito!

Nero d’Avola—Sicily’s Signature Grape

Nero d’Avola is rarely found outside of Sicily.  Brought by the Greeks to the Mediterranean’s largest island (Sicily), it is named because of its almost black skin (nero means black in Italian).  It is also named after the town of Avola, located close to the town of Siracusa where the Greeks arrived several centuries B.C.

The varietal, which flourishes in Sicily’s hot and arid climate, is the most planted red grape on Sicily.  Nero d’Avola is often compared to Syrah, as the two thrive in similar growing conditions.  Syrah is also an intensely colored grape.  Both Nero and Syrah offer sweet tannins as well as peppery and plum profiles.  Nero, however, is more aromatic and its seductive flavors of raspberries, cherries nearly billow out of the glass.

There are > 100 different micro-climates in Sicily and Nero has its own distinctive features depending on which area it is grown.  In general, the western side of the island produces more intensely concentrated black-fruit wines that can be harsh and muscular.  In Sicily’s central area, the grape tends to produce wines that have more red fruit character.  But, it is in the southeast, that Nero d’Avola reaches its pinnacle where wines are elegant with after tastes of dried fruits.  The Wine-Knows group that will be visiting Sicily this Fall will be staying on a famous wine estate in this prized growing region.

The grape can be vinified as a single varietal, or blended with others.  The most famous blending is with Frappato to make Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only  DOCG (Italy’s top wine classification).   Here 30-50%  of Nero d’Avola is blended with the lighter weight Frappato.  Nero adds the muscular backbone, while Frappato’s freshness softens.  More recently, Sicilians have even begun to blend Nero with Syrah trying to create a more international-style wine.

What to pair with Nero d’Avola?  Grilled meats and chicken are perfect, however, Sicily’s famous pasta a la Norma (eggplant and tomatoes) is also magnifico.  Another of the island’s most prized culinary items is swordfish.  Especially if it’s grilled, swordfish can be lovely when paired with Nero.

Paris’ Best Croissant & Baguette

Every year a team of well qualified Parisian gastronomes conduct tastings to determine the best of the best croissants and baguettes.   Under very strict rules (blind tastings, products must be of a precise size & weight, everything must be delivered in un-marked brown bags, etc.), the illustrious team of judges of the Concours du Meilleur nibbles their way through 100’s of entries.  Here are the results of this culinary Grand Prixe:

Best Croissant:   Michel Lyczak’s shop is located in Malakoff (a southern suburb of Paris, reached by the Metro’s line #13).   Sounds like a good reason to make the trek to the burbs, non?    68 rue Paul Vaillant Couturier.

Michel Lyczak palming one of his "babies"

Best Baguette:  Boulangerie Aux Délices du Palais (this is the 1^st time that a boulangerie has ever won twice---16 years ago, the award was won by the father of the current baker).  Surprisingly, this family of bakers comes from Portugal.  60 Boulevard Brune, 14th Arrondisement (Metro Vanves). 

                        Anthony Teixeira & his father at Boulangerie Aux Délices du Palais