Winter does not necessarily mean only red wine
With nearly three months of winter before us, it’s
time to bring out the colder weather wines, as well as recipes for their
accompanying foods. Winter wines are bold
and powerful, and the dishes served with them need to match the wine’s
intensity. For many this time of year means
big reds, however, there are some formidable whites that can also work
beautifully. And, let’s not forget wines such as Port, both
a perfect winter aperitif, as well as a gorgeous dessert wine for this time of
year.
Below is my winter list, arranged in alpha order by grape
varietal.
Barolo
& Barbaresco
Both of these Italian red wines are made from Nebbiolo
grapes grown at the base of the Italian Alps.
Nebbiolo harvested in the town of Barolo is called Barolo, while
Nebbiolo harvested in the nearby commue of Barbaresco must by law be called
Barbaresco. Known for robust tannin and high acidity,
these wines need equally substantial
foods. Julia Child’s veal with mushroom
cream sauce, or a pasta with a
cream sauce of porcini mushrooms and/or truffles are perfect matches.
Oaked
Chardonnay
Winter is a time for full-bodied whites and an oaked
Char fits the bill. The oak barrel gives
the Chardonnay structure by adding tannins to the wine’s profile, along with the
addition of complex butter, caramel and nutty flavors. Oaked Chars can support luscious cream sauces
and rich shellfish such as crab, scallops and lobster.
Cabernet
Sauvignon
It goes without saying that all Cabs should have some
age on them. Cabernet grapes are hugely
tannic, thus time is required for this varietal to be drinkable. A
smashing wintertime pairing is either a prime rib or a rack of lamb. But, another classical coupling is a Bolognese-sauced
pasta, or even a pizza---no kidding, try it…you’ll like it!
Aged
Riesling
With time in the bottle the Riesling varietal changes
dramatically. Young Rieslings offer a fruity
profile----varying from lemon in cold growing areas to apricot nuances in
warmer climates. Aged Rieslings not
only become fuller and richer, but the wine’s taste and aromatics morph into
something with petrol nuances. For some, aged Rieslings aren’t enjoyable.
However, for many, an aged Riesling served with the right foods
can be nirvana. Perfect pairings are a pork
roast with braised cabbage, or duck and goose.
Port
There are many types of Port and one size doesn’t fit all
for matching them with food. Tawny Port,
which presents rich and nutty flavors, works well with salty items such as Parmiggiano
Reggiano and/or nuts. Vintage Ports (which
are extraordinarily powerful with intense
fruits, chocolate and spices), can stand up against a blue cheese such as a Stilton,
or a well-aged power-house Cheddar.
Zinfandel
If there’s ever a classical winter wine, it’s a Zin. As most Zinfandels are a heavy alcohol wine, they must
be served with a food of equal weight in boldness. Think rich,
unctuous wine-braised short ribs, or a hearty beef stew with root veggies. But, beef is not the only match. Chicken can work but it’s all about how it’s
prepared. My favorite method is a recipe
marinating it for 24 hours with balsamic and aromatic herbs, then cooking it
with onions, prunes, capers and green Olives. Here the recipe: https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/8752-the-silver-palates-chicken-marbella
Have
a wonder-filled wine winter.
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