White Wines of Northern Spain

                              The Viura grape, by law, must be at least 51% of a white Rioja blend
 

White grapes in Spain’s home of the world famous red Tempranillo grape?  That seems like an oxymoron to those who enjoy the Rioja or the Ribera del Duero’s world-class reds.  But, wait!   There is "white" life beyond "red" for wine lovers.   Spain’s north produces some wonderful white wines and you don’t have to travel to Spain necessarily to have them.  With summer approaching these sublime whites can enchant even the most discerning of wine connoisseurs.

                            Rioja Blanco is a rarity in the red Tempranillo-centric Rioja district

White Rioja (aka Rioja Blanco) is made from a blend of white grapes, the most important of which is Viura.   Rioja Blanco is rare, accounting for only a mere 10% of the Rioja’s entire wine production.   Often aged in oak, these whites take on bold aromas of roasted pineapple.  On the palate, an older white Rioja can reveal layers of subtle lemon flavors, minerals and good acidity.  In its youth, these whites offer a lemon-lime profile, laced with honeydew melon and mineral nuances.

As mentioned above, white Rioja is a blend of Viura with an accompaniment of a few other obscure white varieties not known to consumers outside of Europe.  For example, ever hear of a white Tempanillo?  A cousin of the red Tempanillo grape, this white often appears in a Rioja Blanco.  Malvasia and white Garnacha are two other popular white grapes used for blending.  By law, however, Viura must account for the majority of any Rioja Blanco.

          Seafood paella, popular in Spain's south, is often accompanied by a Verdejo from the north

Verdejo is the other hallmark grape of northern Spain.  Go into any restaurant in Spain and ask for a glass of white wine.   Or, head to any wine shop in Spain and ask for white wine.  Chances are in both cases you’ll be offered a Verdejo from Spain’s Rueda wine region.  Verdejo accounts for 40% of all wines sold within the country of Spain.   Its popularity may be due to Spain’s warm climate, although Verdejo is a flavor bomb offering up tropical, stone fruit and citrus.   

If you’re looking for a new white for the summer, both White Rioja and Verdejo from Rueda are terrific wines to try.  Both are available in the US.

 

Toro is Taking the Bull by the Horns

           The Toro wine district will be the first Spanish wine region Wine-Knows will visit 

Toro means bull in Spanish.  This tiny wine district lies just across the border from Portugal’s grape growing region for Port grapes, but it’s not just a border these two wine areas share.  The famous Douro River in Portugal flows from Portugal’s most famous viticultural region, to the city of Porto where it empties into the Atlantic.   The Douro becomes the Duero River the minute one crosses into Spain.  The Duero/Douro is actually birthed in Spain between the Rioja and the Ribera del Duero wine regions. 

                            The Duero river exerts a tremendous influence on Toro's terroir

Wine-Knows will follow the Douro to the Duero on our trip from Portugal to Spain on this autumn’s itinerary.  Toro, like Napa, is the name both of the area’s main town, as well as the wine district. While it is unclear exactly how the town’s name originated, the “bull” is nonetheless a fitting symbol for its quite robust red wines have been coveted by royalty since the 13^th Century.  

             Toro town, with a population of  8,000 persons, offers a slice of off-the-beaten-path Spain

The Toro region was among the first to be recognized by the Spanish government as having unique and special wines.  In 1933 it was granted important D.O. status which at the time was the highest quality wine in Spain.  Shortly thereafter the Spanish Civil War broke out and Toro wines were one of the many casualties.  It took 50 years for the area’s winemakers to refocus.  In 1987 a handful of local wineries banded together to reapply for a second D.O. status.   It was granted and this began a renaissance in Toro.             

  D.O. guarantees the consumer a level of quality from grapes grown under certain conditions in Toro

Fast forward to today, there are now 60 wineries in Toro.   Many of the owners of these new wineries are from outside of Toro (most notably the Ribera del Duero and the Rioja), however, some of the most illustrious movers-and-shakers in French wine have invested heavily.    Moreover, Toro is winning awards on the world-wide wine stage.  Britain’s Decanter, (their equivalent of Wine Spectator) is giving 97 point scores to Toro’s muscular reds.

          Wine-Knows will be staying in Zamora, a historic Roman city on the Duero while in Toro

If you’re one of the fortunate Wine-Knows coming with us on the Portugal-Spain tour in September, you’ll have the opportunity to taste this upcoming region’s stellar wines and learn first-hand how Toro’s unique terroir is responsible for shaping a different version of the renowned Tempranillo grape.

Ever heard of Spain's Rueda wine region?   The next blog will cover these coveted white wines made from the Verdejo grape.

5 Big Differences: Ribera Del Duero v. Rioja

                 Although both districts are Tempranillo-centric, the wines of the Ribera del Duero                                                                      are very different from the Rioja 

Spain’s Rioja wine area was discussed in the last Blog.  Today, we’ll focus on the neighboring Ribera Del Duero (RdD) district.  The RdD, like the Rioja, produces high quality, complex wines that have great aging potential.  While both of the wine regions are located at approximately the same latitude and only a few hours drive from one another, they are distinctly different.   Below are five significant differences between the two rock-star districts.

    The Duero River (Douro across the border in Portugal) exerts a huge influence on the RdD's terroir

1.     Terroir

Both the RdD & Rioja have major rivers that moderate their climates.  The RdD, traversed for 70 miles by the Duero River, is a 3,000 foot high plateau with baking hot summers and freezing cold winters which are tamed by this river.   Unlike the Rioja, there is no maritime influence from the Atlantic.  Furthermore, in contrast to the Rioja, the RdD’s soil is clay, silt & limestone.

                     RdD wines are more masculine than the Rioja's softer style wines

          2. Wine Characteristics

The extreme climatic conditions coupled with the heartier soils of the RdD translate to wines that tend to be more muscular than those of the Rioja.  RdD wines are typically from riper grapes of darker fruit with higher alcohol potential.  Due to its terroir, the RdD also has more assertive flavors (think black cherry & blackberry), while the Rioja offers softer red fruit flavors such as strawberry.

3.     Grapes

 Tempranillo is King in both the RdD and the Rioja.  In the RdD, however,         Tempranillo is called Tinto Fino (an actual local varietal of Tempranillo that has   adapted to the harsh terroir).  In contrast to the Rioja, the RdD also uses Cabernet   Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec for blending.

The official seal guarantees authenticity for the consumer that wine is from the RdD wine region

4.     Wine Laws

     The RdD is a wine infant in comparison to the Rioja.   The Rioja’s wine laws were established in 1925 while the RdD did not launch its regional rules until 1982.  While the Rioja is entrenched with nearly a century of laws, the new kid on the block is thinking out of the box and pushing the envelope for new ideas such as single vineyard wines.  

5.     Amounts & Types of Wine Produced

The RdD produces 98M bottles annually, however, the Rioja produces a whopping 350M bottles.  While both wine districts are red-centric producers, the RdD’s production of red wine accounts for 97% of its total.  In contrast, the 86% of the Rioja’s wines are red.   

Stay tuned for the next Blog which will showcase the wines of the Toro region that Wine-Knows' travelers will also be visiting on the October tour of Northern Spain.

5 Facts You Should Know about the Rioja

Whether you're coming with Wine-Knows on their sold-out tour to Spain this autumn or not, here's a quick summary of the top things for wine-lovers to know about the Rioja wine district.

1.  The Rioja is Spain’s most famous wine district. 

The Rioja is arguably Spain’s top wine region and certainly the most famous wine area with the exception of Jerez (Sherry) in southern Spain.  Internationally renowned, the Rioja’s prestigious wines often receive top-ratings by critics and connoisseurs.   This being said, the Rioja has increasingly had to fight off competition from the nearby Ribera Del Duero region.   Nonetheless, the Rioja is still considered Spain’s most important and finest producer of premium red wines.

                             Tempranillo, the Rioja's most famous grape, is a major part of red blends

         2.  Wines are often blended in the Rioja.

Red wines in the Rioja are traditionally a blend of traditional Spanish red grape varieties.  The base of the blend is Tempranillo, however, Garnacha (aka Grenache), Graciano and Mazuelo (aka Carignan) are also used in the blends. 

 

                             The Rioja is also one of Spain's most beautiful wine regions

       3.  The Rioja also produces terrific white, rose & sparkling wines.

Although the Rioja is associated mainly with red wines, the region also makes some stunning whites and rose (rosado) wines.  White Rioja (Rioja Blanco), is quite rare making up only 5-10% of the region’s wines.  Viura is the main grape of these white wines, however,  Rioja Blancos are a blend of other grapes like Garnacha Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, Malvasia, and even Chardonnay.  Sparkling wine is also made and has been included in the Rioja's latest wine classification.

             Rioja Alavesa lies at the foot of the mountains separating the Rioja from the Atlantic

        4.  The Terroir of the Rioja is Diverse.

The Rioja wine region is about 210 square miles.  The mountains on its northern border help moderate the climate by protecting the region from the strong influences of the Atlantic.  The River Ebro flows through the region also moderates the climate, protecting it in winter from freezing temperatures and cooling it in the scalding summers.   In general, the Rioja’s soil is limestone and iron.

The Rioja is divided into 3 sub-districts based upon terroir.

~ Rioja Alavesa is the most northern of the 3 sub-regions.  It is closest to the Atlantic so the area is colder.  Soil here is limestone and clay.

~ Rioja Alta comprises the higher altitudes vineyards in the western section of the Rioja.  Soil is iron rich and clay.

 ~ Rioja Oriental (formerly called Rioja Baja) is located in the eastern section of the district and accounts for 40% of the region’s wine.  This area is composed of lower altitude vineyards.  Unlike the other two sub-districts, it is warm and dry.  Soil, washed down from higher altitudes, is high in iron.

      

    5.  The Rioja’s wine classification system was changed in 2018.

While aging requirements have always been present in the Rioja's wine system (Crianza 2 year minimum, Reserva 3 year minimum & Gran Reserva 5 year minimum), the biggest change in the new rules is the addition of the sparkling wine category, Gran Anada, and the allowance of single vineyard wines echoing the importance of terroir.

Stay tuned for the next article on the Ribera del Duero wine district that Wine-Knows travelers will also be visiting this October.

The World’s Most Widely Planted Grape?

                                      

There are over 10,000 grapes on the earth, but not all of them are used in making wine. While numbers vary, most would agree that at least 1,000 of them are currently used to make wine.  Now, make a guess as to what wine grape is the most planted varietal.   If you guessed Merlot, you’re close…. it’s second.  If you guessed Cabernet Sauvignon you are right!  Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for >5% of the grapes for wine production around the globe.  There are more than Cabernet vines than both Pinot Noir and Syrah and plantings combined.

You may have been lucky on choosing Cabernet, however, for the most planted white wine grape varietal, what’s your guess?   Chances are >99% of you guessed incorrectly.  For white wine grapes, the world’s most widely planted variety is Airen.  That’s right…Airen.    This grape ranks 4^th among both red and white wine grapes.  It is surpassed only by Cab, Merlot, and Tempranillo.  Airen vines account for more than both Pinot Noir and Sauv Blanc combined.

Airen is grown almost exclusively in Spain.  Up until a few years ago it was the world’s most widely planted grape.  If you’ve never heard of it, it’s because Airen is often used for Spain’s unpretentious wines.   The last five years, however, many of the Airen vines have been ripped out and replaced with Tempranillo, another grape native to Spain.    That being said, Airen and Tempranillo combined currently account for 45% of all of Spain’s wine grapes.

Below is a list of the Top Ten wine grape varietals across the globe:

1.     Cabernet Sauvignon
2.     Merlot
3.     Tempranillo
4.     Airen
5.     Chardonnay
6.     Syrah
7.     Grenache
8.     Sauvignon Blanc
9.     Pinot Noir
10.  Trebbiano (also called Ugni Blanc)

Spain’s Rising-Star Wine Region

Let’s just say that I have a grande amor for the wines of Bierzo.  This small, historic area sits smack on the Camino Santiago---the most famous Christian pilgrimage route in Europe.  I walked part of this illustrious Camino last year, however, my love affair with Bierzo began <10 years ago when this obscure wine region's wines came on the world wine scene like gangbusters.  Many of these wines were extremely well-crafted and their quality/price ratio was superb.   Unfortunately, their rise to fame was halted with the global recession.  While Spain's economy is still struggling, Bierzo continues to turn out some terrific wine values.  Unfortunately, relatively few wine lovers still do not know these wines.  It's time to change that.

  

Bierzo is major red wine country.  Nearly 70% of the grapes are from a vine that only grows in this tiny corner of Northwest Spain.  The varietal is Mencia (pronounced men thee ah).  While tannic Tempranillo can be bold and brash, delicate Mencia is a red that offers finesse and style.  At one time Mencia was thought to be a clone of Cabernet Franc brought with Camino Santiago travelers centuries ago, however, DNA testing has disproved this.  When looking at Mencia's qualities it is easy to see why the two were thought to be related: both are aromatic with raspberry and cherry flavors. Mencia, on the other hand, offers beguiling mineral notes such as mint and sage. Because of its acidity, Mencia is a food-friendly wine.

Rural and remote, Bierzo is the kind of region wine lovers dream of discovering.  The vineyards in Bierzo are some of the most beautiful in Spain.  Many are planted in post-card perfect terraces on the steep slopes of a river valley, sometimes climbing up to elevations of >3,000 feet.   The Camino Santiago further adds to the charm.  Picturesque villages, undisturbed by time, dot Bierzo's landscape along with medieval monasteries and convents---all of which sprung up to support the pilgrims who were walking to Santiago de Compostela.   Bierzo also offers a UNESCO World Heritage site located in an ancient Roman gold mine.

Bierzo should float to the top of your list for new wines to try.  Two seats have just become available on the 2016 tour to Spain and Portugal that will visit this area.  Come join us for a trek to this exciting rising-star.  For more info on next year's harvest trip, check out www.WineKnowsTravel.com.

One of the World’s Most Romantic & Scenic

Many of you are probably expecting this article to be about France or Italy…both offer very romantico and attractive wine countrysides.   This Blog is about neither, but instead, a country that is on the other side of the globe.   New Zealand caught me totally by surprise. …dramatic beauty (a kind of Switzerland meets Tahiti), as well as mind-boggling landscapes all surrounded my majestic verdant peaks and empty, endless beaches.   A perfect place for romance.

Another revelation… New Zealand also happens to make fabulous wine.  I’m not a fan of Sauvignon Blanc, especially the grassy herbaceous style.   That being said, I was surprised to find so many Sauv Blancs that were made more in the tropical fruit genre that I enjoy.   Several of them were stunning.   One of my favorite producers was Terra Vin (particularly loved its floral as well as mineral notes, along with its great finish, however, I would have preferred for it to have a little less alcohol).  A deserted beach and two glasses of this well-crafted Sauv Blanc could be a true recipe for some starry-eyes.  

An additional stand-out white was the Viognier from Trinity Hill.  Bone dry, this winner is grown in the South Island’s stony soil.  The winery also made one of the best values we found in our 10 day reconnaissance.  We ended up going back three times to buy additional bottles of their Tempranillo….a steal for $35.  Since then, we’ve found out that this wine has won too many international competition medals to count.  A real Spanish version of romantico.

Trinity Hill’s winemaker has a wife who also makes wine.  (Hard to believe all that talent in one family.)  Her wines are made under the Bilancia label and are show-stoppers.  We found her Pinot Gris (well structured with an intoxicating nose and a fabulous finish) and Late Harvest Viognier (a pineapple and apricot bomb that is only made in the best vintages) to be outrageously grand.  And, what’s more romantic than husband and wife winemakers?

We loved the wines of Unison so much that we ended up inviting the winemaking team to our home in San Diego and they took us up on our offer in August 2012 when we hosted a winemaker dinner.  Their Bordeaux blends are exceptional, worthy of any passionate celebration.

The most romantic and most breathtaking wine district in New Zealand was not near the sea, however, but instead in the middle of the country near an idyllic lake surrounded by year-around snow-capped mountains.   There were many excellent producers we visited but Valli’s Riesling really pulled at the strings of our hearts.  We loved it so much that we chose it for our last night’s dinner…overlooking the lake at Queentown at one of the area’s best restaurants.  Very romantic.

Stay tuned for more details about our 2014 trip to New Zealand.

Happy Valentines Day!

Tempranillo Shootout

Last week I attended the annual meeting of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE).  This is one of my favorite wine events each year in that over a 3 day period we typically taste a couple hundred wines.  I’ve been a member of SWE since 1981, so that means 6,000 wines that have passed through my lips thanks to this wine group…many have been wines and/or producer I did not know.  This year there were some real standouts---one of the best I learned about in a seminar titled, “Tempranillo Shootout.”

Tempranillo, a very popular grape in Spain, is now grown in several countries of the world.  The seminar featured 10 different producers, from 7 different wine areas on the globe. All wines were blind tasted….the only way to go.  Moreover, all wines were roughly the same vintage to reduce age variability. 

There was one clear winner, heads and toes above the others in terms of complexity and finish.  Out of the nearly100 wine educators in the room, >33% voted this wine the top spot (a huge number of 1^st place votes considering a blind tasting of 10 wines).  Are you ready for the victor?  You’ll probably be as shocked as I to learn it was a Tempranillo from Lodi.  Yep, Lodi, CA!   The producer?  One I’ve never heard of---Bokisch Vineyards.  The wine?  Bokisch’s Liberty Oaks Vineyard, 2009.  The best of all is the price---$22 of solid heaven.  It beat out wines that were nearly 3 times the price.

After the conference we were dinner guests of dear friends who are wine lovers.  I began telling them the above story but when I got to Bokisch they grinned and said “One of the wines we’re pairing with dinner tonight is a 2007 Bokisch Graciano.”   (Graciano is another Spanish varietal). Long story short, this Graciano was as good (if not better possibly due to its additional age) than the producer’s Tempranillo.

The next day I searched the Internet for several cases of both wines.  I learned from my friend who introduced us to the Graciano that Bokisch Vineyards has long been sold out of the Tempranillo and Graciano (he’s a member of their wine club).  The two wines have received all types of awards and the older vintages were not easy to find….but were worth the patience in locating them.   You can check out Bokisch Vineyards at https://www.bokischvineyards.com/.  

Bravo Bokisch!