Vietnam’s Scrumptious Street Food

                                               This street vendor is out just after the sun rises.

Street food in Vietnam is an institution.  It’s a way of life.  The poor and the rich do it.  The young and the elderly.  Families and singles.  Locals and tourists.  Each stand has its specialty and it’s not unusual for a vendor to only offer one item.  Delving into the Vietnamese culture doesn’t get any better than at a street food spot where you see all strata of life converging into one delicious spot.

                                             If your lucky, there will be seating.

Seating (if there is any) is very rudimentary---often nothing more than the types of tiny plastic chairs often seen in Kindergartens. (You haven’t lived until you’ve tried to pry yourself out of one of these munchkin size seats.)  It’s not about comfort.  It’s about comfort food.  Service?  The server is the chef---service includes handing you your food.

Two years ago I was taken by a foodie in Saigon on a tour of her favorite street spots.  In Hanoi, I hired a gourmet cooking company to take me to their hidden street gems.  I still dream about both of those evenings.  Very different experiences, but both equally compelling for this die-hard foodie.

One of the most unforgettable places was deep in a residential district of Saigon.  The streets were so small that no cars could enter…only motorcycles or pedestrians.  It was like opening day at Yankee stadium.  The streets were mobbed, there was a palpable excitement in the air.  All bases were loaded at the vendor who specialized in Banh Xeo…a crispy omelette/pancake filled with fresh veggies.  In a hall of fame, this version of Banh Xeo would be served.

                                                     Banh Xeo heaven

The duck Pho soup in Hanoi had me at hello.  This vendor offered small wooden crates for street-side “dining.”  The dishes were washed in front of you right on the street…with the water tossed in the gutter.  I adored every sip and morsel of this extremely complex broth laced with star anise… and the perfectly cooked duck.  Definitely duck nirvana.

                                  I went back 2 days in a row for this duck Pho

Coming on the February 2016 tour to Vietnam?  You’ll visit both of these vendors and several more as we graze through the street foods of these two mouthwatering cities.

Vietnam’s Five Spice

                                 A pungent melange of spices with star anise leading the show

I’m a lover of Vietnamese food.  Prior to moving to San Diego, every week in the Bay Area I would treat to an ethereal grilled chicken lunch at a Vietnamese restaurant near my office.  I never could figure out this dish’s spices, but when I went to Vietnam last year it finally hit me during a cooking class:  five spice powder!  While this mixture is used in Chinese restaurants, it is not used in households in China for daily cooking.   In contrast, it’s a standard in Vietnamese homes. 

Google “Vietnamese chicken with 5 spice” and you’ll be served up in a nano-second more than 1 million articles.  While chicken and five spice is a marriage made in heaven, the Vietnamese use this mélange of flavor to add zest and pungency to everything from their signature Pho soup, to noodles, or stir-fries, as well as a variety of sauces. 

What are the five spices?   While ingredients and proportions  may vary among producers (and from country to country), star anise creates the backbone for most Vietnamese preparations.  Cloves is the next note, followed by cinnamon, Sichuan peppers and finally fennel seeds.  Occasionally, ginger, nutmeg, turmeric, coriander or cardamom may be added to the blend in lieu of one of the other ingredients.

In Vietnam, every household seems to have a recipe for chicken cooked with five spices where is used in a marinade, or even as a rub.  

Christine Ha, MasterChef’s winner in 2013, stunned the television audience throughout the competition.  First, she was blind; second she was Vietnamese. Her masterpieces put Vietnam on the culinary map of many Americans who had not tasted this cuisine.  In her first book after the show, Recipes From My Home Kitchen, Christine uses homemade five spice in her “Mama’s chicken noodle soup.”  Her spice mixture was roasted star anise, coriander and cloves, along with charred ginger (“coaxing every bit of sweetness and flavor from the ingredients which translates to a more flavorful stock.”)

Here is my favorite recipe using five spice--- a tribute to the first Vietnamese dish I fell in love with in the Bay Area.  It can be used for any type of poultry or meat.

VIETNAMESE MARINADE FOR POULTRY OR MEAT

Mix all of the following together:

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large shallot finely chopped
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons minced ginger
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons of fish sauce (3 Crabs brand is the best!)
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
1 heaping teaspoon five-spice powder
1/2 tablespoon sea salt
4 whole star anise, lightly toasted for about 3 minutes and then pounded into a fine powder
Freshly ground black pepper

Put the meat or poultry into baggie with the marinate.  Refrigerate, turning it occasionally to ensure full coverage.  

Note:  it's critical to marinate chicken or meat for at least 8 hours. For the best results, do 24 hrs.

Phở Sure

                                    Fabulous Beef Phở served on the street in Hanoi

It's no doubt that most urban Americans have heard of Phở, Vietnam's signature soup. Pronounced "fuh," Phở is a popular street food throughout Vietnam (vendors actually set up small booths on either the street or sidewalk---most have a few simple tables and folding chairs).  On my recent trip to Vietnam I saw street stalls in Hanoi serving Phở to motorcycle riders who were downing their soup while straddling their bikes.) 

                                 Street stands such as this are on every corner

Phở is to the Vietnamese what hamburgers are to Americans---incredibly popular, available in nearly every restaurant, eaten by the rich and the pool, the young and the old.  Like hamburgers, this soup is also served with garnishes;  Phở, however, is accompanied by a heaping plate of mint, Thai basil, bean sprouts, sliced jalapenos, and sometimes fried shallots.  It's all about aroma and texture.  The trick is to add a little pinch of each of the items as you eat your way through the soup.  Timing is everything.  If you add the garnishes too soon you'll end up with darkened, less aromatics herbs and soggy sprouts and shallots.

                                                              It's all about the broth

The earthy, complex broth is critically important---layers upon layers of subtle nuances, starting with the richness of a cornucopia of meats and bones, with herbs (e.g. ginger and cilantro), and spices (cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and stair anise are the most common)...all added strategically throughout the broth's long simmering process.  Phở  is primarily beef, however, chicken is sometimes found.  Noodles are always made from rice and are linguine shaped.  Phở changes from region to region within the country, differing by noodle width, the sweetness of the broth, and even the choice of herbs used in the broth.  In the South (think Saigon) the soup is eaten mainly for breakfast and occasionally for lunch, whereas in the North (e.g. Hanoi) the dish is eaten at any time. 

                        Phở ingredients awaiting the last & most crucial element, its broth

If you're coming with us to Vietnam next February (we still have some availability), you'll have the opportunity to experience the best Phở---at a street stall, as well as a formal restaurant.  At both stops you can sip the broth, savor its complexity, and appreciate the painstaking time that has gone into birthing this delectable liquid. Phở sure you will become a fan.

For more information on our 2016 February tour to Vietnam, check out:  http://www.wineknowstravel.com/