Comparing Two of Italy’s Best Cheeses

                                             

Northern Italy is a treasure trove for cheeses.  Two of the best known, Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Pedano, appear to be almost identical.  Looking at two wheels of these drum-shaped cheeses they appear nearly identical with the exception of the specific writing on their exteriors.   If you cut them open, to the novice eye their grainy, crystalline texture in the same color palate look quite similar.   But, these two cheeses, both produced from cow milk, are quite different because of the specific areas in which they are produced.  Let me explain.

Like wine grapes, the milk of cows is very much influenced by the terroir in which the cows graze.  While both of the cheeses come from Northern Italy, Parmigiano-Reggiano comes from a small area outside the city of Parma.   North of Parma is the fertile Po River Valley, the home of Grana Pedano.  These two districts provide different pastures with different soils and weather.  Their respective terroirs are reflected in the two cheese differences with slightly different flavor profiles.   Parmigiano-Reggiano has a stronger, more complex, saltier and nuttier profile than the less intense Grana Pedano.

 

In addition to terroir differences, there are other disparities between these two cheeses.  First, Grana Pedano is made entirely of skim milk, while Parmigiano-Reggiano is made from a combination of regular & skim milk.  The heightened fat content of Parmigiano-Reggiano accounts for part of its richer, more butter-like  taste.    

 

Another difference between Parmigiano-Reggiano and Grana Pedano is due to their distinctive aging rules.   By law, Parmigiano-Reggiano must be aged a longer period, thus accounting for its higher price.   This prolonged aging period accounts for Parmigiano Reggiano’s deeper, more complex flavors in comparison to Grana Pedano.   That being said, Grana Pedano costs significantly less reflecting its shorter again period.

 

Last, but not least, the cows in the area of Parma by law have a strictly controlled diet of grass & hay only.   In the Po River Valley area, the laws for Grana Pedano allow the addition of silage (fermented foliage)  to the cow’s diet.  This accounts for another difference between the two cheeses.

 

While both of these formaggi are wonderful in their own right, they are unique.  Why not try a Valentine’s Day comparison of the two and see if you have a favorite?

A Magnifico Condiment from Italy

                                                 Mostarda di frutta is quintessential Italian

Have you ever heard of mostarda di frutta?  If you’ve been in Northern Italy during the winter there’s a very good chance it’s been on many restaurant menus as an accompaniment to a meat dish.  Mostarda is major flavor bomb.  It is often served with the classical bollito misto (an over-the-moon tasty assortment of boiled meats), however, it can also be found as a side relish with cheeses that can take its sharpness.  I’ve even seen it served to the side of sausages, or even spooned over fish. 

I think of mostarda somewhat like an Italian version of chutney.  While some may think because of its name that it’s a type of mustard, it is not.  (It does, however, have mustard oil as an ingredient).  Although it has sugar and fruit, it is definitely not a jam or jelly---and it is not sweet.  It has cayenne, but it is not spicy.  It’s not salty or acidic. In fact, it’s none of these things alone.   It is, however, a unique combination of sweet and savory, salty and spicy, with just enough of an acid backbone.

Often referred to as simply “mostarda,” this yummy condiment can easily be made at home, or can be purchased online or in upscale markets such as Whole Foods.  It can be made with a variety of fruits (although the area in which it originated often used quince and grapes in the beginning).  I’ve seen it made with everything from cherries and figs, to plums and even citrus.

Mostarda di frutta is uniquely Italian.   It’s also a classical wintertime condiment.  Why not have a bollito misto party ?  (Similar to a fondue party only with bollito misto placed in the center of the table in the pot in which it was boiled.)  Bring out some great Barolo or Amarone and invite a group of Italophiles over for a night of wining and dining.  I guarantee you that everyone will go wild over the mostarda!

Buon appetito.