I’ve just arrived from California for a tapas “fix.” Each
time I visit Madrid I stay at the same hotel because of its central location;
but, I also stay here because I’ve got my tapas route perfectly planned from
the hotel…even on jet-lag I can auto-pilot to and from my three pet tapas stops.
First, it’s the upscale Mercado San Miguel, one of
Madrid’s oldest and most architecturally stunning food markets. Reminiscent of the old Les Halles market in
Paris, the glass & steel masterpiece was built in the Beau-Arts style in
the early 1900’s. After two world wars
and a failing economy, the structure fell into disrepair and was nearly abandoned. Shortly after the millennium it was rescued
from the wrecking ball and today, there’s not a more chic place in Madrid to
nibble on tapas.
The crowd at the Mercado San Miguel is young,
well-coiffed professionals so expect the prices to match. The food-centric emporium boasts >30
shops, most of which sell only tapas.
The wine selections match the sophisticated crowd. BTW: don’t even consider this place on a Saturday
night--- you’ll not be able to even move, let alone order tapas or vino.
Mercado San Miguel---market extraordinaire
From the Mercado San Miguel, it’s just a minute or
two walk to Plaza Mayor, one of my favorite squares in all of Madrid…the
architecture, alone, is worth a visit.
Moreover, how could one come to Madrid without paying homage to the
Bullfighter’s bar? While the food at my other two faves are more
upscale, there’s something compelling about this little spot.
Torre del Oro (AKA Bullfighter’s Bar) boasts a huge
array of famous bullfighting regalia…from elaborate matador capes to even a
bull’s head. But what always captures my
attention is the collection of photos, especially the ones showing gored bullfighters
on the operating room table and in various stages of recovery in the hospital. The best tapas? Order the mild padrone peppers…they are
available by special order only. (The men
who work behind the bar are engaging, spirited and quite fun. They usually sneak in a couple of free tapas
if you’re equally so.)
Atmospheric Torre del Oro
I’ve saved the best for last. Head out of the Plaza Mayor to Calle Cava
Baja, a 10 minute stroll. This
pedestrian-only two block street, often referred to as the “street of tapas,” is
lined with tapa places. Look no farther
than Txakolina at #26 which just might offer the best morsels in the city. Definitely a cut above its competitors, this
place offers the most impressive looking and tasting bites. If you’re a crab lover, do not miss the cangrejo--- they are rich and
fabulous. For meat lovers there is a huge array of
gorgeous tidbits. The only downfall of
this tony establishment is its limited wine selection...definitely drinkable
but don’t expect the earth to move. Txakolina
fills early and quickly, so go early.
Txakolina rocks it with tapas!
Ole!
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