Cold Soups of Southern Spain

                         In Andalusia gazpacho is commonly served in small glasses to drink

I’m on the island of Mallorca but will soon be heading to Spain’s southernmost mainland province, Andalusia.  Home to the magnificent Moorish cities of Granada, Seville and Cordova, it’s also the epicenter of Sherry wine.  But, another compelling reason to visit Andalusia is that it offers the best culinary experience for discerning foodies.   While there are many Andalusian dishes I love, its cold soups are simply stunners.

An Andalusian gastronomic specialty, these cold soups come in several different colors.   There’s probably not a traveler who has been to southern Spain during the summer that has not enjoyed a refreshing brilliant red gazpacho soup.   Gazpacho is synonymous with Andalusia for many reasons.  First, the temperatures of inland Andalusia pulsate during the summer  at >100 degrees so a cold, light soup is the perfect choice.  Secondly, Andalusia is the agricultural capital of Spain---it is where the country’s tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onions and garlic are grown.   Home to millions of olive trees, Andalusia is also ground-zero for Spain’s olive oil.  Sherry wine vinegar is also produced in the area.  All of these are the ingredients of gazpacho.

                                         Salmorejo looks super creamy but there is no cream

Gazpacho, however, is only one of the cold red soups Andalusia has to offer.  A “cousin” of gazpacho, Salmorejo, is made using only tomatoes.  It is thicker and creamier than gazpacho because of bread that is added.  The way that the tomatoes, bread and olive oil emulsify make some think that there is cream in the soup, however, there is not.   Salmorejo, is typically served in a bowl with a diced hard-boiled egg on top and small pieces of cured Spanish ham so it can easily be a meal in itself.  

                                  Gazpacho verde (aka green gazpacho) is a crowd pleaser

But, wait.  There’s another relative of gazpacho that you must try.  It’s called green gazpacho and here’s why:  it’s made from green tomatoes (popular in Spain), green bell peppers, cucumber, spinach, parley, mint and avocado---along with the traditional onion, garlic, olive oil and sherry wine vinegar.  Try it.  You’ll like it!

                                                Ajo blanco is sometimes called "white gazpacho"

Ajo blanco is yet another cold soup of Andalusia.  While it literally translates to “white garlic soup,”  this is not a vampire dish as there is very little garlic.  In fact, it’s mostly Marcona almonds and it’s often made with the addition of a green apple and topped with green grapes.   Ajo blanco is thought by some to be the original cold soup of Andalusia and the precursor for today's gazpacho (before tomatoes were bought from the New World).

Why not celebrate the first days of autumn by making a refreshing cold summer soup?

France’s Quintessential Wine Village

                               Grand Cru vines surround the medieval village of St. Emilion

Out of the several hundreds of wine villages in France, the one I would pick to visit is o St. Emilion in the Bordeaux district.  Located <25 miles east of the city of Bordeaux, this village has it all:   enchanting history,  stunning hilltop location surrounded by a sea of vines, spectacular medieval architecture, and of course stellar wines.  I’m in St. Emilion today and this town of 2,000 feels like it may have doubled in size---it’s swarming with visitors from around the world who have come for the annual Ban Des Vendanges (wine harvest festival).    

St. Emilion is named after an 8^th Century monk who was traveling to the Holy Land.  As the legend goes, when the monk reached Bordeaux his gourd of water supposedly turned to wine.  He took this as a sign that he was supposed to stay there….and he did so until his death, taking care of the sick pilgrims who were also bound for the Holy Land.

       St. Emilion's limestone was used to build most of the grand buildings in the city of Bordeaux

The village of St. Emilion is legendary for its limestone.  Bordeaux's Opera House and its beautiful Stock Exchange buildings are just a few examples of stone from St. Emilion.  Quarrying has left St. Emilion with large underground areas from where the limestone blocks were removed.  Some of these subterranean parts are so large that they will fit hundreds of people.  Others are small chambers with secret passageways under St. Emilion.  

The limestone also serves an important purpose in the area's wines.  Grapes love limestone soil because it provides a perfect drainage system.   Many of St. Emilion's vineyards sit on top of subterranean caverns from where stone was quarried.   When touring these underground caves it’s normal to see vine roots cascading down through the ceiling from vineyards located 20-30 feet above.

Centuries-old ramparts still surround some of the hilltop St. Emilion

The village of St. Emilion is also a medieval architectural jewel-box.  It’s no wonder that several movies have been filmed here as the city appears much as it was > 500 years ago. The United Nation’s cultural arm now protects the entire village and its surrounding vineyards.  Under UNESCO, no changes can be made without approval of the World Heritage Council.     

Wine-Knows has several special events planned this weekend.  Tonight is a private dinner at Chateau Coutet with the owner/winemaker, and tomorrow is dinner at Chateau Guadet at the owner’s home.  Sunday Wine-Knows will breakfast with the Mayor of St. Emilion at City Hall, and then indulge in the festivities of the harvest festival:  the blessing of the wine at a formal mass, followed by a 3-4 hour lunch with the members of St. Emilion’s esteemed Jurade.

If you're ever in southwest France, St. Emilion is definitely worth a detour.  Plan to spend at least a couple of nights as there is much to soak in...wine included.

Tarragon's Origin Will Surprise You!

          Tarragon works magic with seafood, chicken & veal, but it can also create magical desserts

I will be in France in just a few days and I'm already looking forward to my first Wine-Knows' meal....which, by the way, will include a dish made with tarragon.   This herb is often associated with classical French cooking (e.g. Bernaise sauce is made with tarragon, as is the country's quintessential "fine herbs" blend).  Our first group dinner will be at jaw-dropping Chateau Bychevelle (Wine-Knows has leased the entire property for four nights).  The starter will be lobster poached in a tarragon-infused butter and white wine sauce.  While the French adore tarragon, the herb's origin is far from France. 

        3 Michelin star cannelloni of crayfish over a tarragon consummé served with a sprig of tarragon

Tarragon originated in either Siberia or Mongolia.   While the Greeks were using tarragon 500 BC for medical purposes such as toothaches, the herb seems to have worked its way into Europe's cuisine sometime after Genghis Khan's army invaded Europe in the 12th century.  While the Mongolians never made it to France, they did capture parts of Germany and Italy, both of which border France.  History indicates the Mongolians were chewing tarragon both to clean their teeth and as a sleeping aid.

The tarragon herb has an anise-licorice taste so it's understandable how chewing it morphed to using it in cooking.  While there are millions of recipes that use tarragon (in countries that range from the Middle East to Asia in savory and sweet recipes), the one that really stands out in my mind is Julia Child's veal scallopini with mushrooms:  Escalopes de Veau a l'Estragon (Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 1, pages 367-8.)   If you don't have the book just Google the recipe as there are copies her recipe on the web.

One last tidbit.  Did you know that tarragon was a member of the sunflower family?

The World’s Oldest Wine Society

                             The Jurade harvest festivities are a wine-lovers' dream experience

The year was 1199.  England controlled the entire southwest of France, including the Bordeaux region.  King John (the brother of Richard the Lionheart), commissioned a brotherhood of wine to be formed in the medieval town of St Emilion located across the river from the city Bordeaux.  Known as the Jurade, this elite organization received special dispensation from the English Crown.  In return, England was given the first rights to St Emilion’s wine.

The freedom provided to the brotherhood of the Jurade (composed of the area’s top winemakers), allowed the Jurade to maintain rigorous quality control.  If the vintage was poor, winemakers were encouraged not to make wine that year.  Over 800 years later, the Jurade of St Emilion is still active.   Wine-Knows’ participants on the upcoming harvest festival tour to Bordeaux will be guests of the Jurade at their extravaganza private luncheon.

                        June Dunn, owner of Wine-Knows, became a member of the Jurade in 2016

On September 19, Wine-Knows will attend a private breakfast in St Emilion’s City Hall with the Mayor and members of the Jurade.  Dressed in long flowing theatrical red robes, the Jurade will depart city hall in unison and parade down the people-lined cobblestoned streets (with Wine-Knows marching right behind them in the procession).  This is one of the most important events in the Bordeaux wine district.  Photographers and television cameras will abound.

                        The Jurade's private lunch is one that would even impress Bacchus

The spectacle continues all the way to St Emilion’s church where a mass for the blessing of the harvest will be held.   After the mass, new members of the Jurade will be sworn in.  Then, the wine begins to flow as the Jurade and Wine-Knows will move to the city’s famous medieval Cloistures for a glass of Champagne to celebrate.   The coup de etat, however, will be the private luncheon in one of St Emilion’s ancient palaces.   At the last Jurade Wine Knows attended, lobster was the first course, foie gras the second, and the main was a tenderloin of beef.   Ten bottles of premier St Emilion adorned each table for 8 persons.  The lunch typically lasts for 3-4 hours.

A toast to the Jurade, s'il vous plait !